Seven nights aboard M/Y Solace from Bodø to Tromsø — through Lofoten, Vesterålen and Senja in the week of the summer solstice, under the midnight sun.
This is the far north of Norway in its single best week. Solace boards at Bodø, just above the Arctic Circle, on the summer solstice — when the sun does not set, rotating low through the small hours under the midnight sun.
From there the route runs north through the great archipelagos of Arctic Norway. The Lofoten Wall and the fishing villages of Værøy, Å and Reine. The narrow slot of Trollfjord. The sperm-whale grounds off Andøya, an hour offshore above the Bleik Canyon. Senja — "Norway in miniature." And the white sand and turquoise water of Sommarøy before the run into Tromsø.
Solace is a 57-metre Feadship, reborn in a ten-month refit at Pendennis and built for quiet voyaging. Her 12-metre Windy chase tender, by Espen Øino, is invaluable for exploring the fjords and coastal areas — up the kayak channels of Steigen and along the shoreline at Sommarøy. Twelve guests. Fourteen crew. A dedicated expedition leader.
Bodø sits just above the Arctic Circle on a flat peninsula jutting into Vestfjorden, with the Lofoten Wall rising from the water on the western horizon. In 2024 it became the first city north of the Arctic Circle to hold the title of European Capital of Culture — accelerating a decade of growth into a genuine cultural confidence, an outstanding food scene rooted in Arctic ingredients, and a substantially reimagined waterfront. The Stormen concert hall is one of the finest cultural venues in Northern Norway; the new Ramsalt district has brought energy and good restaurants to formerly industrial land.
Joining Solace on 21 June is one of the most remarkable moments in the annual calendar — the summer solstice, when the sun does not set, and the light that arrives in the evening simply stays, softening and rotating through the small hours without ever quite fading.
After guests board and settle in, the afternoon centres on tender exploration of the area just south of Bodø and Saltstraumen — a natural spectacle found nowhere else on earth. Every six hours, 400 million cubic metres of seawater are forced through a 150-metre strait connecting Saltenfjorden and Skjerstadfjorden, generating whirlpools up to 10 metres across and currents reaching 20 knots. The coast around Bodø also supports one of the world's largest white-tailed sea eagle populations.
Sjunkhatten National Park covers 171 km² of wild coastal landscape on the Bodø peninsula — a 45-minute sail from departure. The park is remarkable for both its wildlife and its flora: carnivorous sundew plants grow in the bogs, otters work the shoreline, and white-tailed sea eagles patrol overhead. The terrain is excellent for hiking and kayaking, and the remoteness makes it feel a world apart from the mainland. The day is arranged according to guest preference, the weather, and the desired timing for the crossing to Lofoten.
About 40 km north of Bodø lies one of the finest historical sites in Northern Norway — a complete 19th-century merchant estate, frozen almost exactly as it was at the height of its prosperity. Fifteen original timber buildings stand around a sheltered harbour, set against white sand beaches and wave-smoothed granite. The post rose to prominence under the Zahl family, the wealthiest merchants in all of Nordland; the merchant's quarters and the fishermen's quarters stand side by side, the story of northern Norway in miniature. Knut Hamsun knew this place well — it appears, fictionalised, in several of his novels, including Pan.
Naustholmen is a small island in the sheltered Steigen archipelago — a little paradise of red timber buildings, grassy slopes and extraordinary calm. It is owned and run by Randi Skaug, the first Norwegian woman to summit Everest and a veteran of the Seven Summits, who turned it into an adventure base that feels more like a generous private home than a commercial operation.
The outer Lofoten Islands offer some of the most dramatic seascapes in Norway, and Værøy is the jewel of the south. A mountain-ringed island at the end of the archipelago, it hosts massive seabird colonies — puffins, gannets, cormorants and sea eagles — and offers outstanding hiking across its five peaks. Spend the morning hiking ashore, exploring by tender to spot wildlife, or simply enjoying the beach.
During lunch Solace continues north to Å — one of the best-preserved fishing communities in the country, and the shortest place name in Norway. A cluster of red and ochre rorbuer clings to the rocks above the water, drying racks heavy with stockfish. Å was a working fishing station long before tourism existed, and it still feels that way.
Later this evening Solace anchors off Reine — one of Lofoten's most scenic villages.
Awaken at anchor off Reine. Few places in Norway have been photographed as often, and fewer justify the attention so completely. The village sits at the inner end of Reinefjorden — a tight cluster of white and red fishing houses on a flat shelf of rock, with the Lofoten Wall rising almost vertically behind it. In late June the light never quite leaves, rotating low around the horizon and casting everything in warm amber.
Spend the first part of the morning exploring ashore, on foot or by bike. Starting early, there is the option to hike the Reinebringen trail (448 m, approximately 2,000 stone steps — roughly two hours return for stunning summit views), or a relaxed tender cruise around the Reine waterfront before repositioning.
Trollfjord is arguably the most dramatic fjord in Lofoten — a narrow, sheer-sided slot barely 100 metres wide at its entrance, plunging deep into the mountains. Solace cruises Trollfjord on her way north to her overnight anchorage, arriving late this evening.
Andøya is one of the best places in the world to see sperm whales in summer — and remarkably, the feeding grounds lie only about an hour offshore. These are the waters Solace will be sailing as she cruises north along Andøya's west coast during the morning. The island rises straight from the sea, and the waters off Andenes sit above the deep Bleik Canyon, where squid and fish attract the great whales year-round. If conditions are not favourable to head offshore, a protected inshore route is available.
Solace arrives in the town of Andenes at the island's northern point this afternoon — the departure point for local whalewatching operations. Alternatively, spend time ashore for a stroll, the local whale exhibits, and the lighthouse at the northern extremity. After Andenes, Solace sails east to her overnight anchorage off Senja.
Senja is Norway's second-largest island and one of its best-kept secrets — an island of extraordinary diversity, with desert-like beaches, dramatic coastal mountains and deeply incised fjords, often described as "Norway in miniature." Gryllefjord, on the western coast, allegedly continued practising siesta until around 1980 — a tradition said to trace to a Spanish merchant vessel that ran aground nearby around 1700.
Hamn sits on a small peninsula on the eastern side, tucked into a sheltered natural harbour with mountains rising sharply on all sides. The Hamn i Senja hotel occupies a collection of historic fishing buildings along the waterfront; the combination of a serious kitchen, a remarkable setting and surrounding wilderness makes it one of the finest stopping points on the entire Norwegian coast. This evening Solace sails north for a couple of hours, passing the remarkable "Devil's Teeth" sea mountains to her overnight anchorage off Sommarøy.
The name means Summer Island, and in late June it earns it completely. Sommarøy sits just off the western coast of Kvaløya, a short sail west of Tromsø — a low, rocky island barely separated from the open Arctic Ocean, surrounded by water of a clarity that seems implausible this far north. The beaches are white sand; the sea, on a calm day, runs turquoise. Anchored off Sommarøy at midnight with the sun sitting just above the horizon, painting everything copper and gold, is one of those experiences that resists description and stays with you permanently.
After a morning at Sommarøy, Solace cruises back into the fjords towards Tromsø for the night, ready for early departures the next morning. Depending on arrival time there may be time to enjoy the late afternoon and evening in this lively city known as the "Paris of the North" — a university city with an outsize personality, good restaurants and a vibrant arts scene.
Bid farewell to Solace and transfer to the airport for departure flights this morning. The airport is conveniently located less than ten minutes from the harbour, on the western side of Tromsøya.
A 57-metre Feadship, built in 2005 and reborn in a ten-month refit at Pendennis completed in September 2025, with interiors by Vickers Studio. Five suites and two guide berths for twelve guests, and fourteen professional crew. Sauna, gym, sky lounge and library aboard.
Her 12-metre semi-custom Windy chase tender, by Espen Øino, is invaluable for exploring the fjords and coastal areas — into the kayak channels of Steigen, along the shoreline at Sommarøy, and wherever the coast rewards a closer look. E-powered watercraft round out a vessel built for quiet voyaging in the high latitudes.
Summer temperatures along the Norwegian coastline in late June typically range from the upper 40s°F (9°C) to 60°F (15°C), though a single day can swing from the 40s°F (9°C) to 77°F (25°C). This is a marine climate — rain and fog are as likely as bright, sunny days. For landings, dress in layers so you can adjust your insulation as conditions change.
Dress on board is practical: clothes to wear on landings, casual clothes for the vessel, a jacket for the deck, and something a little nicer for dinner if you choose.
Binoculars are essential for distant wildlife and birds — you will use them a lot, so invest in a quality pair. A magnification of 10 or 12 is about as much as most people can hold steady by hand; 8×42 or 10×42 are popular, well-balanced choices. Image-stabilised models are excellent.
Kite Optics image-stabilised models are field-tested and recommended by EYOS staff. As a trusted partner, Kite Optics extends a 10% discount to EYOS travellers — enter promo code EYOSKITE10 at checkout. usa.kiteoptics.com
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